The California State Rabbit Convention will be held in Turlock, California, February 28 and March 1. Both my sisters and I will be participating in the youth shows. We are pretty bummed because we will not be participating in showmanship. Showmanship will be held on Sunday, so we will not be participating. We believe that Sundays are for God and family. Fortunately, we do not have to stay at a hotel for this show, because my grandparents live very close. We will be able to stay with them. We are hoping to meet some of our French angora youth friends at this show and see our adult French angora friends as well. They help us learn so much. We don't go to shows for just the fun and prizes. We always come home knowing more than when we left.
I will be taking three junior does and one senior buck and one junior buck. But I am not entering the junior buck because he is already sold. And he is so beautiful and has such a good body and good wool that he would take beat out all my other bucks for a leg. Had I known how beautiful he was going to be, I would have kept him for a while longer and let him earn more legs. And then I could have sold him for a lot more money.
I am entering all the other rabbits. One of the junior does is already sold as well, but we need her to make a fifth rabbit so that one of our junior does, hopefully Sage, can will a leg.
Lydia will be entering three REWs and one colored. Her two junior REW bucks will hopefully sell at the show.
Becky will be taking all her junior rabbits--four bucks and a doe--and only three of them will be entered. Two of the blue bucks and the REW doe are already sold.
We'll report on the rabbits did next week.
Black Diamond Kits
Sage's Kits, Nine Weeks Old
Tuesday, February 24, 2015
Thursday, February 19, 2015
How To Choose a Good French Angora Rabbit
When you decide to buy a French angora rabbit, there are several factors to keep in mind to help you choose the best rabbit for you.
First, when you go to buy your rabbit, you always want to make sure the rabbitry is clean. You want to make sure the rabbits are well-groomed and that their cages are clean. Also, you want to make sure that their shelter--barn, garage, or shed--is clean. (Cleanliness helps prevent disease.)
If you are looking to buy a show-quality rabbit, these are some of the things you may want to do. After you have gone to the rabbitry and seen that everything is clean, you will want to judge the rabbit for yourself. (4-H is good for learning how to judge rabbits.) Ask the breeder if the rabbit has been shown and whether it has won any legs. You may also ask whether the parents have been shown and whether they have won any legs. For a show quality rabbit, you need a rabbit with a good body. Wool is supposed to be 55% of the points for French angoras, but French angoras have been bred so much for their wool, that some bodies just aren't good. So judges tend to consider the body more than the wool. But wool is important, too. Good wool has good density, crimp, texture, uniform length, and an appropriate amount of guard hair. Finally, you will want your rabbit to have at least a four-generation pedigree chart.
Now, if you want a wool quality rabbit, you don't need to consider the body type. Indeed, a wool quality rabbit probably won't have a good show body-it will be long in the shoulders or have poor hindquarters. It may have a disqualification (DQ), such as a splay leg, split penis, discolored nails, broken ears, etc. Many wool-quality rabbits have excellent bodies, but have some other DQ like an unshowable color that you can't fool the judge with, like charlies or ermines. (Not that you or we would even try fooling the judge.)
A pet quality rabbit would most likely have a bad body or poor wool. But you always want to make sure that the bunny is a nice bunny and used to being handled.
If you have any questions about choosing a bunny, please post a comment or send us an email!
First, when you go to buy your rabbit, you always want to make sure the rabbitry is clean. You want to make sure the rabbits are well-groomed and that their cages are clean. Also, you want to make sure that their shelter--barn, garage, or shed--is clean. (Cleanliness helps prevent disease.)
If you are looking to buy a show-quality rabbit, these are some of the things you may want to do. After you have gone to the rabbitry and seen that everything is clean, you will want to judge the rabbit for yourself. (4-H is good for learning how to judge rabbits.) Ask the breeder if the rabbit has been shown and whether it has won any legs. You may also ask whether the parents have been shown and whether they have won any legs. For a show quality rabbit, you need a rabbit with a good body. Wool is supposed to be 55% of the points for French angoras, but French angoras have been bred so much for their wool, that some bodies just aren't good. So judges tend to consider the body more than the wool. But wool is important, too. Good wool has good density, crimp, texture, uniform length, and an appropriate amount of guard hair. Finally, you will want your rabbit to have at least a four-generation pedigree chart.
Now, if you want a wool quality rabbit, you don't need to consider the body type. Indeed, a wool quality rabbit probably won't have a good show body-it will be long in the shoulders or have poor hindquarters. It may have a disqualification (DQ), such as a splay leg, split penis, discolored nails, broken ears, etc. Many wool-quality rabbits have excellent bodies, but have some other DQ like an unshowable color that you can't fool the judge with, like charlies or ermines. (Not that you or we would even try fooling the judge.)
A pet quality rabbit would most likely have a bad body or poor wool. But you always want to make sure that the bunny is a nice bunny and used to being handled.
If you have any questions about choosing a bunny, please post a comment or send us an email!
Tuesday, February 17, 2015
The First Plucking of Junior French Angoras
The first plucking of a junior French angora should occur at around 4.5 to 5 months. (So hang on there, Emmie!) There are some breeders who plan in advance to breed their rabbits so that their juniors will be in prime condition, about 4.5 months of age, for the big shows. This seems like a really good idea to me, and I will be using it in the future. If the breeders are showing them at their best at 4.5 months, this suggests that the prime time for the first plucking is 4.5 to 5 months.
I plucked my first rabbits much earlier than I should have. Knowing when to pluck is, I think, of great importance, so that the rabbits won't get wool block and so that I can have them in good condition for show. Also, don't become so afraid of wool block that you are plucking your rabbits too early. Just make sure that they get their papaya pills or cubes and plenty of hay and fresh water.
A blower, though a bit pricey, is an invaluable investment. This is because your angoras will be able to keep their wool in longer, and it will keep the coat from webbing and matting. And blowers do not remove as much wool as a comb, so your rabbit has a much denser coat for show. A blower should be used once a week for just a few minutes, and definitely right before going to the show table.
I plucked my first rabbits much earlier than I should have. Knowing when to pluck is, I think, of great importance, so that the rabbits won't get wool block and so that I can have them in good condition for show. Also, don't become so afraid of wool block that you are plucking your rabbits too early. Just make sure that they get their papaya pills or cubes and plenty of hay and fresh water.
A blower, though a bit pricey, is an invaluable investment. This is because your angoras will be able to keep their wool in longer, and it will keep the coat from webbing and matting. And blowers do not remove as much wool as a comb, so your rabbit has a much denser coat for show. A blower should be used once a week for just a few minutes, and definitely right before going to the show table.
Placerville Show Sadness
The deadline for entering the Placerville show was last night. For the past few weeks we have been contemplating whether it was too close to the state convention and the travel might stress the junior rabbits too much. It turned out, as the deadline loomed closer, that I caught the flu. Not knowing how long I would have it (I started with it early yesterday morning), it was a gamble whether or not we would be able to go. We didn't if or when Lydia and my mom would get sick. We really wanted to, because it sounded like they would have great showmanship prizes. We went back and forth, and ultimately decided not to.
It turned out that Lydia got sick this morning.
I believe we really would have enjoyed the Placerville show. I had a few concerns that it would be hard on the rabbits. The state convention only a week later is a lot of travel for them, and they would be staying in small cages for two days and two nights. This way, by staying home, they will be all fresh and ready for the state convention.
It turned out that Lydia got sick this morning.
I believe we really would have enjoyed the Placerville show. I had a few concerns that it would be hard on the rabbits. The state convention only a week later is a lot of travel for them, and they would be staying in small cages for two days and two nights. This way, by staying home, they will be all fresh and ready for the state convention.
Thursday, February 12, 2015
My Favorite Things about Having Rabbit Kits
It's a miracle that they can be so tiny and helpless and that I can hold them in my hands.
When they get older, they are so cute. I like seeing how curious and excited they are to be able to see and hear.
I like how just a short time ago they were inside their moms, and now they are out and growing more.
It's exciting to see how many different colors are in the litter.
I like to see how their little personalities develop.
When they get older, they are so cute. I like seeing how curious and excited they are to be able to see and hear.
I like how just a short time ago they were inside their moms, and now they are out and growing more.
It's exciting to see how many different colors are in the litter.
I like to see how their little personalities develop.
Day 13--Ears Up
Today the kits are 13 days old. They opened their eyes 2-3 days ago. Their ears started popping up yesterday. They look so cute!
The kits are getting very lively. Just this morning, we found three kits outside the nesting box! That's not supposed to happen for another 11 days. Now, we have to check the kits frequently to see if they have escaped the nesting box again. They are crazy!
As you know, Charlotte sexed them when they were born. She thinks all the coloreds are does and the one REW is a buck.
 |
| Doe, color as yet undetermined |
The kits are getting very lively. Just this morning, we found three kits outside the nesting box! That's not supposed to happen for another 11 days. Now, we have to check the kits frequently to see if they have escaped the nesting box again. They are crazy!
 |
| Blue doe. I think I am going to take this one. |
As you know, Charlotte sexed them when they were born. She thinks all the coloreds are does and the one REW is a buck.
 |
| Doe, color as yet undetermined. She has been named Mossflower. |
 |
| REW buck. He has been named Martin the Warrior. |
 |
| Black doe |
Tuesday, February 10, 2015
Supplemental Feeding of Rabbit Kits
School has just begun again for Becky, and so she does not have as much time to care for this unplanned litter of kits. I have assumed the responsibility of weighing and feeding the young kits.
Most litters have at least one runt. This kit may need special care. At this rabbitry, all runts get special care whether they need it or not. ;)
Runts receive supplemental feeding and their weights are carefully recorded daily. There are numerous recipes online for supplemental formula. However, we have not tried any of them yet. Maybe on the next litter we will see if the kits like it.
We have used two different commercial formulas. The first was KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer). It cost $15 (for maybe 8 ounces) at the feed store. It is mixed up jut like baby formula. The rabbit kits sucked it down when it was freshly opened. We kept it in the freezer, but when we tried to feed it to the second batch of kits five months later, they wouldn't touch it. We assume that it spoiled.
So we needed more formula. So my mom went back to the feed store. They no longer carried KMR, but had something new. This was Ultra Start Multi colostrum supplement for newborn animals. The packaging says it's great for "calves, foals, lambs, goat kids, baby pigs, fawns, elk calves, llama crias, puppies, and kittens." No mention of rabbits. (I'm just finding this out now as I write this blog. I can't believe my mother withheld this information from me.) It was $15 for a 16 ounce bag.
The runt in this litter will suck plenty of it down if it is warm, but she refuses it if it is cold.
There is one thing you need to watch for when supplementing. You do not want to feed them just before the doe nurses them. You don't want the runt to be filled up on formula so that she is full when her mother comes and can't drink the perfect milk her body needs. You want to try to feed kits about six hours after the mother has nursed them.
Though we can't tell if the supplement helps, we do know that none of our runts have died after we started supplementing them with formula. And they have been very healthy and good-sized.
Most litters have at least one runt. This kit may need special care. At this rabbitry, all runts get special care whether they need it or not. ;)
Runts receive supplemental feeding and their weights are carefully recorded daily. There are numerous recipes online for supplemental formula. However, we have not tried any of them yet. Maybe on the next litter we will see if the kits like it.
We have used two different commercial formulas. The first was KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer). It cost $15 (for maybe 8 ounces) at the feed store. It is mixed up jut like baby formula. The rabbit kits sucked it down when it was freshly opened. We kept it in the freezer, but when we tried to feed it to the second batch of kits five months later, they wouldn't touch it. We assume that it spoiled.
So we needed more formula. So my mom went back to the feed store. They no longer carried KMR, but had something new. This was Ultra Start Multi colostrum supplement for newborn animals. The packaging says it's great for "calves, foals, lambs, goat kids, baby pigs, fawns, elk calves, llama crias, puppies, and kittens." No mention of rabbits. (I'm just finding this out now as I write this blog. I can't believe my mother withheld this information from me.) It was $15 for a 16 ounce bag.
The runt in this litter will suck plenty of it down if it is warm, but she refuses it if it is cold.
There is one thing you need to watch for when supplementing. You do not want to feed them just before the doe nurses them. You don't want the runt to be filled up on formula so that she is full when her mother comes and can't drink the perfect milk her body needs. You want to try to feed kits about six hours after the mother has nursed them.
Though we can't tell if the supplement helps, we do know that none of our runts have died after we started supplementing them with formula. And they have been very healthy and good-sized.
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